Step 2: Cut off the top border of the sheet. You can also cut off the other hems and salvages, but on mine I just cut to top border and salvage. The other two sides were already hemmed, so I just chose to leave them.
Step 3: Layout your supplies. I used a cookie sheet to roll the ink on, but it was not quite level on the bottom, which made it hard to get an even coat on the brayer. A melamine tray works great, but remember the ink, though washable, can stain.
Step 4: Scoop one heaping spoon full of paint on your sheet or tray. (You will need more, but it is best to use one spoon full at a time.) Roll your brayer over the paint until you get an even coat.
Step 5: Roll the "inked" brayer over the wood block a few times to coat it. Then place it on the sheet and press firmly. Gently lift it up and repeat. You will need to apply a new coat of paint with the brayer each time.
(If you have never block printed before, it might be a good idea to try a sample scrap, so you can see how the amount of paint and pressure affect how the block prints.)
Don't be too fussy. The variation of the image can add interest to the finished piece. I accidently overlapped one of the images and decided I liked it and went back and added to some areas. But remember that even open spaces can add interest.
The paint dries rather quickly, but sometimes not quickly enough. A hot hair dryer can come in handy if you get impatient.
Step 6: Wash up your utensils. You cannot move on to the next step yet anyway, so it is a good time to clean-up. Plus, dried paint is much harder to remove, if not impossible at times. I use a plastic scrub brush and mind soap to clean my utensils. The scrub brush is particularly helpful for cleaning the wood blocks. However, remember that these blocks are very old and need some tender loving care. (I have never broken a piece off of mine, but I am sure it is possible if you are too rough.)
This is another time old towels come in really handy. Wood is porous, so takes awhile for woodblocks to dry, and many times the paint dyes still seep out--even when the block looks clean. Laying the block design side down on an old towel is the best way I know of to help absorb some the remaining dye from the paint.
I store all my fabric painting supplies in a plastic tub with a lid. I think I will add a few of those old towels to the tub this time too. They are no longer just "old towels;" they are my fabric painting towels and they have a new home. :)
Step 7: Once the pain is fully dried, you will need to heat-set the paint. (I would give it at least an hour to dry.) This is done by ironing the back side of the sheet on the no-steam setting.
The directions on the paint jar say to use the heat setting that you would for the particular type of fabric. The sheet I used was 50% cotton / 50% polyester, but I used the highest setting on my iron.
Step 8: Since you have your iron out, you can also use it to set in the first fold of your hem. I made a 1/2 inch fold on all unfinished edges.
Step 9:
You can then easily fold again and pin the 1/2 hem.
Step 10: Set up your sewing machine and "put the pedal to the metal," so to speak. Most of us, even though we are not seamstresses, can sew a straight line.
I decided to use a contrasting blue thread to match the paint. Once I finished the first side, the blue thread looked so neat that I decided that I would go all the way around--even over the hem already in place.
Old sheet to tablecloth transformation complete!
It has been raining here the past couple of days, and the snow is just about gone from our deck. Yes, it is still to cold to be sitting out on the deck in the evening, but the spring fever sparks are starting to ignite my thoughts.
